Install DR Coilovers Shocks
Tools Required:
1 - Darned expensive set of DR Coilovers
1 - Can of your favorite penetrating oil - lube fasteners
1 - Torque Wrench - properly tighten all fasteners
1 - Impact Wrench (or breaker bar) - break fasteners loose
1 - Lug Nut Socket - lug nut removal/installation
1 - 19mm Wrench - lower coilover mount bolt
1 - 19mm Socket - lower coilover mount nut
1 - 14mm Socket - upper coilover mount nuts / bolts
1 - 22mm Socket - upper control arm ball joint nut
1 - 5/16" Allen Wrench - should you need to adjust the coilover height
1 - DR Coilover Spanner Wrench - same as allen wrench
1 - Hammer - persuasion device for knuckle assembly
1 - Pair Side Cutters - (or regular pliars) - cotter key removal
1 - Ratchet Strap (if separating knuckle from upper control arm)
1 - Jack - lifting frame of truck
2 - Jackstands - supporting truck frame while front wheels removed
2 - Cotter Keys - Replacements - DO NOT REUSE ORIGINALS
1 - Front End Alignment - requied with ride height change
All of the above items should appear somewhere in the photo, less the coilovers, jack, stands, ratchet strap, and cotter keys:
Preparation:
I took a preliminary measurement so I could verify my ride height didn't change after the install. If it does, an alignment would be required. I decided to measure from the wheel well to the upper lip of the rim - making sure the tape measure went through the center of the wheel.
Since the Titan has a torsion bar in the front that basically connects the two lower control arms, it will be easier to move things around if you get both front wheels off the ground. Before lifting, set the parking brake, then break each lug nut loose but do not remove (1/2 turn is enough). Then lift the truck on each side until the front wheel is off the ground. Properly support that side via one jackstand under the frame and remove the wheel. Repeat for the opposing side.
Stock, with the OR package, this is what you should see:
Next, you want to put a good penetrating oil on the three nuts sitting on top of the coil bucket. These are what hold the top of the coilover to the bucket.
Use that same lube on the upper control arm ball joint threads. This photo doesn't actually show the lube, but it does point out the nut.
Also lube the lower coilover mount bolt threads.
Disassembly:
Go ahead and remove the three nuts on the coil bucket. Don't worry, the coilover is basically wedged in between the bucket and the lower control arm.
Now remove the nut from the lower control arm coilover mount. No need to remove the bolt just yet.
Next, remove the cotter key holding in the ball joint for the upper arm. This is where I used side cutters as if you grip the key by the head, you can extract it nicely. Standard pliers will work, but it requires more effort.
Now, break the nut loose on the ball joint. Don't try to separate the ball joint from the knuckle assembly just yet. Go ahead and remove the nut - this will help clean the threads. Now thread it back on - if you have to use a wrench, repeat this procedure until you can screw it back on with little to no effort. Once done, screw it back on until the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the ball joint threads.
Now, give the knuckle assembly a few good whacks with a hammer where the arrow shows. It should pop off relatively easy. Mine came off after 3 hits, but yours may take more. Vibration in the knuckle is the key. The nut you previously put back on keeps the arm and knuckle assembly together when it does finally separate.
The upper arm is spring loaded so you will need to pull it down in order to get the nut off. Once done, you can slowly let the upper arm relax into the upright position. Keep hold of the knuckle assembly as it will want to fall as well. Make sure to remove the wheel speed sensor line grommet from the mount. See photo for the speed sensor line. This will give you a bit more freedom in letting the knuckle assembly relax into a holding pattern. The 4wd versions seem to stay pretty much where you put it, but the 2wd units might want to wander - if need be, use a bungee cord to hold it steady.
Next, remove the bolt from the lower mount.
Now you are ready to remove the coilover. They are fairly heavy so use both hands. Pull the bottom towards you and then down until the top of the coilover clears the bucket.
Installation
Here is a comparison in length between the OEM Rancho and the new DR. Notice the PRG spacer at the top of the OEM coilover only makes it longer. While the DR uses spring pre-load to accomplish the same 2" lift.
Coilover Check:
I checked to verify that both of the DR's were set the same as far as lift goes. I noticed that they varied by 1/16." I went ahead and adjusted it on the spot. Since I have a vice, it wasn't that difficult. Had I not had one, I would have had to mount it first in order to hold it still.
NOTE: If you look from the top down, turning the pre-load adjuster clockwise will give you more lift. Make sure to back out the set screw in the adjustor or you will damage the threads.
Install:
Slide the DR into place - top first and get one of the three supplied bolts (with lock washer) started. The coilover mount has six mounting holes and the directions tell you to use the ones with a dimple beside them. If you point the gas port out, there is only one set of holes that will work. You may need to twist the coilover back and forth until you find the mounting hole. Once you have this one started, you can move below and install the lower mounting bolt. There are two spacers and the instructions specify placing the shorter spacer towards the front of the truck. Put the nut on finger tight.
Now start the other two top mount bolts and lock washers. - No need to try and tighten them as the upper arm will be in the way.
Using a ratchet strap, loop it around the lower arm and anchor it to the top arm. Make sure to keep the wheel speed sensor lead clear of the strap. You can now ratchet the upper arm down and guide the ball joint back into the knuckle assembly. Once tight, put the ball joint nut back on.
I used the guidelines from PRG's Leveling Kit and tightened the ball joint nut to 57 ft/lbs. Install new cotter key. Remove the ratchet strap.
Now that the upper arm is out of the way (so to speak) tighten the upper coilover bolts to 30 ft/lbs. Then tighten the lower mount bolt to 85-90 ft/lbs. This torque isn't listed anywhere in the DR instructions. Again, I used the spec. from the PRG instructions.
Reinsert the wheel speed sensor grommet back into the bracket and reinstall the wheel. Repeat on the other side.
When finished, set your truck back on it's shoes and torque the lug nuts to 98 ft/lbs.
Now go for a test ride... listen for any unusual noises. If found, investigate.
If you have altered the ride height at all - ie, you've lifted it any at all, have an alignment done immediately! Again, I checked mine with a tape measure.